High Porosity :Cuticles in hair shaft are raised due to either being born and naturally having High porosity hair or you can achieve High porosity hair by chemical process such as relaxer or hair dyes or heat damage. Basically you have taking your hair from either Low or Med porosity and have damaged your natural state of hair and are in need of Protein for strengthening or trimming the damaged hair.
Low Porosity: is when the cuticles are closed and moisture is hard to get in to the hair shaft. Your cuticles are tight and it takes Hot DC, washing in above Luke warm water to open your cuticle allowing moisture to go into your hair shaft.
Normal Porosity: when the cuticles to your hair shaft are slightly open and partial closed Basically they are just Right!! Moisture goes into your hair shaft and does not come out.
Well did you know that Knowledge of Porosity and knowledge of hair type are some times different :
Also we have to know that hair is a neutral base having a 7 being between acidic and alkaline.
EXAMPLE
If you have 3a hair with normal porosity hair: you don't have to use a lot of moisture, but you dyed your hair ( causing you to have HIGH porous hair now) and you are still doing the same hair routines that you always did to your hair, your hair will begin to break off because it is now needs more moisture and is breaking because of the lack of moisture given and its lack of ability to hold unto the moisture due to the hair shaft being open.
So how to fix the issue you first you must target which hair porosity your hair is in.
If it floats @ top of water You have a LOW Porosity
If it goes in the middle You have a Normal Porosity (Congrats best of both worlds)
If it goes down to the bottom you have a HIGH Porosity
Ok NOW that you know what your hair porosity is HOW TO FIX IT.
NORMAL you cont doing what you doing!!!
Luckily you don't have to be a scientist and worry about how to get moisture in or retain moisture. You can just find products that your likes and keep it moisturized.
LOW your cuticles need to be lifted. BUT HOW?
OK here comes the science you need an Alkaline product to help lift your Cuticles.
Some use the CHERRY COLA TREATMENT ..I know what your thinking :O Cherry Cola.....Mama...NO
You Take Baking Soda and add to cool water and rinse your hair out with this after your conditioner.
IF you dont want to do that you could add Baking Soda to your conditioners to help with the opening of the cuticles.
Now when you do this you may also want to add a Aloe Vera Juice ( it has an acidic level of 5) to your hair because you have opened your cuticles you want a product with some acidic level to it to lower it down some to get you to the MED level we all want to achieve.
When it comes to Protein treatments you dont need them as often. In most cases there is no time table to when you need a protein treatment. You go by when your hair tells you its time.
EXAMPLE:
When you notice your curls are alot looser than they normally are this is a sign that your Elasticity is being loss and a way for your hair to tell you it needs some strength A.K.A Protein treatment.
Now when it comes to HIGH porosity we want the acidic products to help lower our cuticles.
The most popular product would be Aloe Vera & Protein Treatments
Now for my Natural High Po's Your Regimen is all about Moisture retention:
1.Pre poo is important to help prevent stripping of moisture before shampoo or co washing your hair. (Applying an oil/conditioner to your hair prior to washing your hair)
2.Washing/co washing your hair 2x a week is important to help moisture retention.Its recommended if you wash 2x a week you can wash with a gentle shampoo or cowash the first time and follow with a regular conditioner. The next time use a cleansing shampoo and Deep Conditioner.
3. Deep Conditioning your hair once a week in order to help maintain healthy moisturized hair.
4. Styling your hair well wet will help you to retain moisture and seal in that moisture before it is lose.(which can occur after washing hair and allowing it to air dry you are loosing moisture during this time, because the cuticles are risen they can not hold the moisture in and during the air dry time moisture is leaving your medulla out from the risen hair cuticles.
5.Following the L.A.O.C method will help retain moisture in High porosity hair
Leave in
Aloe Vera
Oil
Cream/Butter
Leave in will give you that extra moisture you need in your hair.
Applying Aloe Vera gives 2 benefits for High porosity hair one its thick and vicious matter helps to hold moisture longer and the low pH of Aloe Vera 5.0-5.5 helps lower the cuticle down allowing the moisture to be locked in.
Oil also helps to seal the moisture into your hair by infusing in your hair shaft and locking moisture in from the inside.
Cream and butter help lock the moisture in from the outside of the hair shaft.
5pH acidic level to lower the cuticles on our hair to help get us to MED porous. Along with its pH it is a thicker moisture base than water and will help close and moisture your curls.
Protein is a huge help to High Porosity hair because of the open cuticles, High porosity is prone to be weaker and tends to break off more. To help prevent that simply giving strength to your curls with a Protein treatment will help coat and strengthen your curls. every 6 weeks depending on how damage your curls are you may need to take drastic measures and trim the damage off remember its hair it will grow back !!
And remember that you have to keep a balance meaning if you protein you hair you should always follow with a moisture Condtioner so that you will moisturzier your curls. Protein will only strengthen your curls so following with a Moisture condtioner or Moisturiezed Dc will keep your curls on the path of moisture retention.
I hope this LONG blog has helped!!! Remember that it takes time to know and learn your hair but when you do and notice there is a change, one day from moist to dry check to see if your hair routine needs to be changes.
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